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Canal House Cooking Volume No. 1: Summer Review

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If you were assembling a cookbook of your favorite seasonal recipes --- recipes for meals you've actually served, and served often ---- it would be the size of Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton's Canal House Cooking, Volume 1. That is, about 60 recipes. These recipes would offer the unique tastes of your "signature" dishes. They would be easy to make --- this is a summer cookbook. And you'd have very few choices in each category.
That's the key idea: choicelessness. As consumers, we are awash in choices. Most are false choices, so your mind goes blank. You don't so much choose as surrender. And this is as true of cookbooks as it is of the hundreds of cereals that are basically just delivery systems for high-fructose corn syrup.
What we want, whether we know it or not, is an editor. Or, better, a curator --- someone who knows our values and tastes and can reduce the world to the very few things we might like. [..] is built on this principle. So is Hirsheimer and Hamilton's book.
These women describe themselves as "home cooks". That's testimony to the enormous effort they have undertaken to liberate themselves from decades of professionalism. Christopher Hirsheimer was one of the founders of Saveur Magazine. She has co-authored four cookbooks and taken the photographs for thirty more. She knows from "high end". Melissa Hamilton co-founded a restaurant, did a stint at Cook's Illustrated and ran the test kitchen at Saveur before becoming its food editor. Her bio does not mention a love for sliders.
Something happened to Hirsheimer and Hamilton when they moved to little towns across the river from one another in New Jersey and Pennsylvania. Fresh produce, of course. But also a gentler pace. They found a loft overlooking a canal and opened a studio: Canal House. It has a dishwasher they don't use and a wood stove they do. And in late summer they roll up their sleeves and preserve their bounty.
Volume 1 is their summer cookbook. It starts with seven kinds of drinks --- did I say this is a summer cookbook? They teach you how to hard-boil an egg. [For easiest peeling, use eggs you've refrigerated for a week.] A few nibbles. Tomato and crab aspic. Four soups. A sprinkling of salads. Enough ideas for tomatoes to make you less guilty about that big-eyed purchase at the farm stand. Three kinds of fish. Ditto for chicken. Just six vegetables. And modest desserts.
In short: the basics, the meals they love. Presented casually, just as you would. With gorgeous pictures and watercolors, just because. Hard to believe that something this useful could be this lovable. But the evidence that this is true is on each and every page.

Canal House Cooking Volume No. 1: Summer Overview

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