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Adventures in Jewish Cooking Review
Jeffrey Nathan. Is he a son of author, Joan Nathan? Nope, his mom is Harriet Nathan. Jeffrey Nathan. The executive chef at New York City's top kosher restaurant, Abigael's. You mean the chef isn't a woman named Abigael? Nope. Jeffrey Nathan. What does a former Navy cook know about kosher cooking? Plenty. Jeffrey Nathan. The most adventuresome, kosher celebrity chef? DEFINITELY! Growing up Jewish in an Italian neighborhood of Queens, NY, Nathan was exposed to unique dishes at home and at the neighbors. Having worked in kitchens since childhood, from Italian to Naval to Sephardic to "New Deal" wild-game, he knows a lot, and this CIA grad imparts it to the reader in breezy, interesting, chatty prose. Each recipe is tagged as Meat, Dairy, or Pareve, and is preceded by a few sentences about how it recipe was conceived.
Highlights include: A chopped liver in which the onions are browned in brandy (a secret to using a food processor is taught); a Vegetarian Chopped Liver using apples and corn flakes in addition to the familiar green beans; and Latin American Cerviche, a Passover alternative to gefilte fish that uses salmon and red snapper cut on a bias and served with a crunchy salsa salad that incorporates matzo with mango, jalapeno, peppers, citrus, and tomatoes.
Speaking of gefilte fish, try the Gefilte Fish Terrine with Carrots and Beet Salads. Familiar with lox and cream cheese? Try his Smoked Salmon Cheesecake with a bit of roasted pepper vinaigrette (he explains how to roast the peppers). There are recipes for 16 soups and stocks, including, of course, a classic Chicken Soup, as well as a miso variation, and a Sephardic variation with Sofrito and Saffron. Tired of chickens? Try Salmon Corn Chowder or his (dairy) Loaded Baked Potato Soup. Do salads bore you? Among his 14 salads are Abigael's House Salad with crunchy greens, almonds, and roasted Garlic (a lesson on roasting garlic); a Hungarian Slaw, an Asian Two Cabbage Slaw (napa and red) with soy and sesame oil; and a Challah Panzanella Salad, inspired by the day old Tuscan bread salads and pita based fattoush.
What? No Brisket? Of course, there is. Try his herb and cilantro infused Latin Beef Brisket with Chimichurri, BBQ Vinaigrette, and Sweet Potatoes. Did I mention his Apple Cider Brisket (3 onions, 3 cups of cider, molasses and more)? His son's trip to Peru and a love of cumin crusted steak led to the recipe for Peruvian Steak with Red Grapes and Onions. His Lamb with Ratatouille and a Balsamic "syrup" are inspired. Syrian Lemon Chicken Stew "vibrates" like he said it will (better than the one they serve at Esca). Nathan's poultry recipes include those with Orange-Soy marinades, paprikash, preserved lemons, pojarski, Yemenite, and raisin and asian styles. A kosher Jambalaya? Yes, he makes it with turkey and veal sausage. Eleven fish recipes are included. Try the Falafel-Crusted Salmon, and the Jamaican Jerk Salmon. Vegetables? Yes, Jews eat vegetables. Try the savory hamantaschen with a vegetable based stuffing; a vegetarian chili; ginger applesauce; a Portobello fajita; wild mushroom kugel; and potato dumplings provencale. Among the nearly dozen pasta recipes is one for a spicy mac and cheese kugel with 3 peppers. Side dishes include a mango-date haroset; smoked trout and scallion mashed potatoes; root vegetable tzimmes; Yemenite curry rice; and string bean puttanesca (a Jewish puttanesca? Her mother has no nachas). Breads include a unique Bialy Loaf and Yemenite Skillet Breads. The book closes with sample menus, measurements, and several desserts, including Jewish standards and a Passover Banana Cake and a Banana Soufganiot pudding.
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